Dermocosmetics combine the principles of dermatology and cosmetics to develop topical products specifically formulated for skin care. These are not pharmaceutical medicines but can support skin function.
The increasing demand for safe and effective daily solutions has driven their use in preventing or managing skin conditions and improving skin appearance. They complement traditional drug therapies and are supported by clinical and scientific evidence.
At SEMERGEN’s 47th National Congress in Granada, Spain, family physicians Patricia Arbúes Espinosa, MD, and Aurora Medina Cobos, MD, led the seminar, “Dermocosmetics: Everything You Wanted to Ask, Here We Tell You.” The session explained the core concepts of dermocosmetics and their potential applications in primary care consultations in an engaging and interactive manner.
“Social media spreads information on everyday skincare products, but this seminar aims to provide evidence-based guidance for their safe and effective use,” said Arbúes Espinosa. A cosmetic is any substance applied to the external surfaces of the body, such as the skin, hair, nails, lips, external genitalia, teeth, and oral mucosa, to cleanse, protect, or maintain them.
Cosmetics cannot claim therapeutic properties or alter physiologic functions. The intermediate term cosmeceuticals contains active ingredients that produce biological effects but lacks the rigorous trials and regulations required for medicines intended to prevent, treat, or cure diseases.
Skin Health
The skin is the largest organ in the body. It acts as a barrier against infection, ultraviolet radiation, and pollution; regulates temperature and fluid balance; provides sensory input; and supports immunity. Maintaining barrier integrity is essential for overall health, and routine skin care is a priority.
Cosmetic products can support or irritate the skin and, in some cases, damage the skin barrier. Arbúes Espinosa highlighted photoprotection as the dermocosmetic intervention with the strongest scientific evidence for disease prevention, including skin cancer, photoaging, and dyschromia.
Effective protection combines physical measures such as clothing, hats, and sunglasses with broad-spectrum topical sunscreens tailored to age and skin type and should be routinely recommended in primary care.
Hydration is a key component of this process. Regular use of emollients and dermocosmetics containing ceramides (glycerol, urea, and lactic acid) and occlusives (petrolatum and liquid paraffin) restores barrier function, reduces trans-epidermal water loss, and decreases skin reactivity. This approach helps prevent and manage xerosis, atopic dermatitis, and other inflammatory dermatoses.
The second part of the seminar, led by Medina Cobos, addressed the clinical use of cosmetics and offered practical guidance for their safe and effective application in primary-care settings.
Acne
Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, characterized by the presence of papules, pustules, comedones, and nodules. The patients are concerned about scarring and hyperpigmentation.
Evidence-based ingredients include niacinamide for its anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties; salicylic acid as an exfoliant; low-dose azelaic acid for anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and depigmenting effects; topical retinoids to normalize keratinization; and antioxidants such as vitamin C.
Medina Cobos recommended routines combine gentle cleansing with salicylic acid or zinc, followed by a light, oil-free moisturizer containing niacinamide and noncomedogenic sun protection.
Xerosis
Xerosis, a condition of dry skin, results from a disrupted barrier and reduced levels of natural moisturizing factors and lipids in the stratum corneum.
Medina Cobos recommends gentle cleansing with syndets, synthetic surfactant cleansers with a physiological pH that are less irritating than traditional soaps, followed by intensive hydration with creams or emulsions rich in urea, glycerin, or ceramides, while avoiding very hot water or harsh cleansers.
Active ingredients that benefit xerotic skin include humectants such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol, and propylene glycol, which draw water into the stratum corneum, and emollients such as vegetable oils, essential fatty acids, and butters, which soften the skin and fill intercellular spaces. Occlusives such as paraffin and petroleum jelly form protective films that reduce water loss. Ceramides and soothing anti-inflammatory agents, such as niacinamide, further support barrier repair and reduce irritation.
Rosacea
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition featuring episodes of persistent or intermittent erythema, papules, pustules, telangiectasia, and sometimes phymatous or ocular changes. Patients should avoid irritants such as fragrances, menthol, alcohol, and eucalyptus.
Care focuses on gentle cleansing and light moisturizing with soothing emulsions containing niacinamide or hyaluronic acid combined with mineral- or oil-free sun protection. Glabridin is a skin brightening agent, whereas licochalcone A is primarily used for its soothing, reducing, and anti-inflammatory properties. Topical caffeine is a mild vasoconstrictive agent that temporarily reduces redness and puffiness in the skin, and antioxidants, such as stabilized vitamins C and E.
Hyperpigmentation
Increased melanin, appearing as darker spots, can result from genetics, sun exposure, inflammation, or skin damage. Medina Cobos recommends niacinamide, low-dose azelaic acid (≤ 10%), vitamin C, and cosmetic retinol to lighten the pigmentation.
These compounds inhibit tyrosinase, regulate melanosome transfer, and accelerate epidermal renewal, demonstrating their efficacy in melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and solar lentigines.
Alopecia
Although cosmetics cannot prevent hair loss, they can improve appearance, support adherence to medical treatment, and boost self-esteem. Gentle pH-balanced shampoos that cleanse without irritation are essential.
Formulations containing caffeine, niacinamide, biotin, or peptides are commonly used; evidence is limited, but these products are well-tolerated.
In addition, densifying products such as keratin hair fibers, camouflage powders, and volumizing sprays can help improve hair appearance and patient confidence.
Practical Guidance
The final session highlighted the importance of tailoring advice to each patient’s profile, including skin type, condition severity, and referral to a dermatology specialist. Medina Cobos emphasized the need for evidence-based recommendations.